Well, you've done it for me, Sally. I am definitely returning to Amsterdam. On my last visit I was with my family and we stayed in the middle of the red light district - we didn't know this until we arrived. We chose our rooms because they were cheap and very close to the station. Let me tell you it was an "experience". We got high on the smoke wafting through our window of our room above a bar! The climb up the stairs (aka ladder) with suitcases was an experience I don't want to repeat! I'm downloading Urbaniser - thank you for your recommendations.